Three days in Rome – part II

by Iuli

Our second day in Rome was dedicated to a journey on foot towards the Vatican and its surroundings. We have had the real pleasure to enjoy the Pentecost service in Piazza San Pietro and, in spite of a merciless sun, there was so much solemnity and welcoming in the air that we didn’t feel like leaving anymore.

In the end we chose to leave the Vatican museum visit for our next day and headed ourselves toward Castel Sant'Angelo (less known as the Mausoleum of Hadrian), the medieval refuge fortress of the popes. The castle is circular in shape and offers an inner spiral climb towards the upper part, where the visitor is met by an enchanting display of rooms and terraces with a great panorama towards the center of Rome. If getting there at lunch time, it would not be a bad idea to try and serve a meal on the terrace at the top of the castle, with an incredible view over the Vatican and fare prices (about 10e for one tasty lasagna offered together with a coke).

Descending from the Sant’Angelo we followed the river Tevere (Tiber) downstream toward the picturesque Trastevere district where a more laic and humble Rome, with narrow streets and small houses greeted us. If you’re a bohemian going to Rome, Trastevere is definitely a must see for its authentic atmosphere and also its many pubs and restaurants.

From Trastevere you can return towards the city centre by crossing the Tiber on the bridges across the Island, a path leading directly to the interesting and quite well conserved ruins of Teatro di Marcello and then turn on Via del Teatro Marcello, along the Capitoline Hill and upwards to Piazza Venezia.

A rewarding choice for ending our second day was a twilight walk through the Navona district, with a short stop at Piazza della Rotonda and the Pantheon and ended in Quirinale, at the crowded but fascinating Fontana di Trevi. It was there that we dropped all the change in our pockets hoping for a return with more staying days and that we have enjoyed a well deserved couple of hours of peace and rest, in spite of the cosmopolitan crowd swarming around us.

The journey back to hour hotel has led us up on the Esquiline towards the largest church in Rome, Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore whose location it is said to have been chosen by the very Blessed Virgin Mary.

We have kept our last day in Rome for a thorough visit at the Vatican and it was well we decided to do so, as the entrance queue was surrounding the city on its north-eastern side and we have spent about three hours waiting to get in (you can avoid this by paying a tour guide but as we were already on low budget and had no idea what was laying ahead of us…).

Once you get inside, after passing the multiple security scanners, the remaining thing to do is go with the flow… your feet already in great pain from the three hour queue stand. It is not necessary to list the items displayed in the museum nor the glamour of the Apostolic palace… but the sacred atmosphere imprinted in the walls highly contrasting with the more human opulence and beautifully blended with breath taking works of art are all things not easy to forget about. The journey through the overwhelming maze of the Vatican is crowned by the famous Sistine Chapel with its frescoes painted by great Renaissance artists, Michelangelo included and which is hosting the Papal conclaves.

Later the same day, tired by our visit to the heart of the Catholic Church, we have taken another walk in the Navona surrounding with stops in Piazza Navona – a wonderful display of Baroque works of art – and a visit inside the Pantheon, the enormous ancient temple of all gods where the tomb of Raphael is to be found.

After treating ourselves with a 5 euro ice-cream in Piazza della Rotonda we have taken a one last walk towards the Fountain of Trevi just to find it less crowded than in the previous evening and headed then to our hotel passing again through Piazza Venezia and then along the Trajan’s Forum towards the Coliseum and the Esquiline Hill wherefrom we have enjoyed one final view of the ancient city.

Three days could obviously never be enough to explore all that Rome has to offer but if you don’t care that much about your feet and can bear the tiredness of walking around its major sites and their surroundings you will definitely enjoy enough cultural and historical atmosphere to compensate for the lack of time and get a very good picture of its never setting glory, magnificence and power.