Hong Kong: Chinese, Chinese and more Chinese...part III

by Bobo

OK, Hong Kong is the place where malls are everywhere and shopping can be considered a national Olympic sport. There are however plenty of places worth seeing (yet if anyone keeps willing to be part of he shopping marathon, all of them are full of shops so that sightseeing can be easily combined with famous brand stores and fake markets).

One of them not to miss is Victoria Peak. You can get there either by tram (the Peak Tram – but you need infinite patience…some two hour queue may cut your enthusiasm), either by bus or…a taxi. I personally got there by chance: the visit was scheduled for another day, but getting to the world’s largest escalator (a network of escalators 800 meters long – the world’s longest of which I had been reading about in the Lonely Planet guide) I said to myself…let’s see where it gets. And when I got up (up meaning the end of the escalator – which was anyway finishing kind of suddenly and a bit wacky) I could see The Peak indicators. As we are not the greatest action guys in the world, in order to come down 800m (on normal stairs, this time, the difference between start and end being 135m) we decided to see the so greatly advertised peak. On a sign there was written you could get there on foot or by taking a cab, but it seemed like they have forgotten to mention… the direction to follow. The taxi to the peak was written to be around 20 HK dollars but no one could tell us (or could understand what we wanted) in which direction we had to go… so we said ‘to the taxi’ to ourselves (2 euro didn’t seem like such a big deal). Only that the taxi, instead of 20 HK dollars cost us 50… but that is another story to be told.

When we have finally reached the top, as it was the second day of the Chinese New Year, the crowd was even bigger than in the shops. The view however is worth every penny. And I am not just figurately speaking: in order to get to the terrace where from you and see the whole city of Hong Kong, you need to pay another 10 HKD per person (the terrace obviously being at the top of a mall). But the view from up there is spectacular: sky-scrappers cramped into each other, the green covering the mountains, the ocean blue… and, unfortunately, the omnipresent smog grey dominating the entire landscape.

As it is trying to become a city as cosmopolitan as possible, Hong Kong has had for a few years (about 5 or so) a Disneyland park. For someone like me, who has grown up with Donald and Goofy, the Disneyland was on top of the things I wanted to see in HK. It is pretty easy to reach. Located on the island of Lantau (where the airport and the giant Buddha statue are also located) it has its own subway station. However, the park was… disappointing. Compared to the one in Paris, it seemed a lot smaller and far more… crowded. Ok, ok, it is located in Hong Kong and it was normal to be crowded (especially as it was the third day of the New Year) but… not like that. Anyway, if the Disney stories have still an effect upon you, the park is still worth paying a visit.

You must not miss a ferry journey in Hong Kong. It is anyway difficult to miss as it is the most accessible and cheap way to cross from the continent to the island and backwards. And the Star Ferry Company (one of the ferry operators) is the oldest in Hong Kong… since 1880s.  And their ferries are a piece of history… the one I’ve first travelled with dated from 1931… fortunately the ocean was calm enough so I didn’t have to ask myself about the safety of the vessels built in the 30s. You can take a daytime or a night time cruise. They are both worth as the view you get from the ocean is unique. If the money is a problem… a simple crossing does the job: it only costs 2.5 HKD (about 25 cents) and my advice is to take a day time journey first and a return at night time… in this way you get to kill two birds with one stone.

From Hong Kong it is easy to get to Macao. A one-hour ferry ride and you are there. A city that is extremely different from Hong Kong (maybe because it used to be a Portuguese colony and the streets still have names like ‘avenida’ written on the same blue ceramic tiles as you can see them in Lisbon) where gambling is at home. It is actually the only place in China where casinos are legal and where the Chinese come to ‘invest’ their savings in roulette and other games (which would normally get you bankrupt… yet they see them as an investment… that is rarely getting them any profit).

It is a city full of color (especially gold) and with hotels that catch the view by various peculiar forms. It is a city that (from my point of view) can be visited in a single day – this only if, of course, you don’t have any money to drop at the green table.

In the case you want to escape from the Romanian cold and plan a winter time journey, you should check the Chinese New Year date and try spending it in Hong Kong. The festivities last for 3 days and the second day fireworks are a spectacular thing: they last for 26 minutes and leave you with your mouth open. Along with the fireworks there is a light festival in Tsim Sha Tsui, parades and many, many other things. Nevertheless, the majority of bars and restaurants add a 10% tax to their prices for those party days and nights (their characteristic way to party – do not imagine terrace outings and crowded clubs – in the old days it used to be a family party, in restaurants or meetings with friends… now the party is with the credit card in your hand filling the wardrobe with whatever you do not need).

The most fascinating objective is, however, Hong Kong. Anywhere you were and anywhere you looked the view was another. Two things remained however constant: the sky scrappers and the crowd. In spite of all these, it still remains a fascinating city worth to be seen by anyone.

Hong Kong: Chinese, Chinese and more Chinese - part II

by Bobo

          Hong Kong…another kind of city with other kinds of people and a totally different culture and civilization from what I have encountered until now. A city mixing the old and the new, the wealth and the poverty, the tradition and the kitsch… a city of extremely powerful contrasts.

          The first impression given by Hong Kong is a… foggy one. The whole city seems to be covered by a thick dense haze, keeping you from enjoying the otherwise fabulous panorama. Pollution is a serious problem, explained indeed by the extremely crowded harbor and the huge number of cars (however with no traffic jams, anxious drivers and tiresome klaxons).

The second impression was of crowdness. If the buildings seem too close to in Bucharest, in Hong Kong they are really squeezed into each other. There is no such thing as urban development concept, which is actually understandable for an island inhabited by millions. Old houses, Buddhist temples, corner stores in two-three storey buildings are standing next to glass and iron mammoths. The old apartment buildings (those too with plenty of levels) look like after the war: worn, dirty, with iron grids (I still cannot understand why anyone would use grids for the 23^rd level) each more bizarre, with laundry hanging on rope lines at the windows and pipes exposed on the facades (so that whoever complains of our

apartment buildings should know there can be worse… if there’s any consolation). The streets, although quite large, seemed crushed by the urban landscape making the place not highly recommended for those suffering from claustrophobia.

          But all this mixture of glass and steel blending with the old iron is fascinating and you cannot help from walking with your eyes staring at the sky. And this is actually a dangerous as driving in Hong Kong is on the left side and this thing might seem a little difficult for the European used to looking ‘left’ and then ‘right’ when crossing, at least in the beginning.  Good thing there caution signs exist at the vast majority of pedestrian crossings.

          A good advice for journeys to non-Euro countries is tied to the money. We had and Euro credit card that helped us in many situations. It is easy to find an exchange office but you should be careful to the currency rate of exchange. Before leaving for Hong Kong, be careful to check the currency rate for Euro (or US Dollar) against the HK Dollar. The exchange offices in the airport practice pretty bad exchange rates (it happens to other places, too, but in HK the difference is of about 30%) and all sorts of commissions, so that a credit card is most welcome. For credit card transactions no fees are charged (or this was at least for ING – which have by the way no ATM’s in Hong Kong). Another bank (which has ATM machines in HK and is to be found in Romania, too) is Citibank, but I am not sure about the conditions applying to their credit cards. There’s no need to present an ID so whatever amount you change, remains changed.

          And since we were speaking about the money… in HK shopping is highly practiced, just like hanging out on a terrace bar is in Romania. The Chinese are crazy with brands so that long streets and malls are filled with names like Chanel, Prada, and Vuitton… HK is the first (and the only one I think) city where I could see people queing to enter stores with names like those mentioned above. And I am not talking about two-three people in a row… but tens of people waiting at the doors (and buying). And the products are not cheap at all. Maybe cheaper than in Europe but… Seeing such madness to get inside a store I thought of some major discounts or super prices, so I decided to adventure inside an Hugo Boss shop… 900 Euro for a winter coat (reduced price!) and 250 for a scarf immediately cut my desire so I went on for a walk. Fare to say Zara and H&M are also to be found but since you can encounter them in Europe, too it makes no point to go such long way only for those (my opinion). However, if you can afford it… Hong Kong is the best shopping destination, considering you get to see a totally different world. 

          But the stores are not the only thing. Let us not forget that HK is part of China, mother country to all the fakers. There are plenty of markets and small shops wherefrom you can purchase handbags for as much as 10 Euro or suitcases for 20 Euro, t-shirts and jeans, all bearing brands of the most famous… and counterfeit. Great stores are also full of ‘made in China’ products, but probably of no such poor quality as the ones to be found in the markets. And although there are over one billion Chinese in this world, it appears that some Indian mafia still exists, selling you Rolex watches at street corners (and this in Tsim Sha Tsui, where we have been assaulted by 15 such sellers – the best thing is to ignore them, and even so they would not leave you easily.

         

          The Chinese are probably tired with so much shopping, so that they fall asleep anywhere they can. And when I do not mean some short nap saying ‘sleep’. They sleep and they snore. Anywhere. On banks in the parks, in the buses, in the subway, on the ferryboat, in the stores. Anywhere. Although there is a clear notice at the subway entrance advising to wait for passengers to alight before getting on the trains (which is also announced at train arrival), no one seems to care about that. If there is some spare spot, everybody runs for it maybe they get lucky and catch a nap. After 8 days in HK I jumped to the conclusion that there would be no wonder for the inhabitants of China to be fighting Matusalem in terms of setting records. I believe they are the calmest people and the ones that care the less about others. If someone knocks you down the street and you expect some apologies… you might wait till getting old and never hear that. As it is a crowded city, pedestrian accidents might (and do) happen. But I have heard no one saying “sorry”. Fare to say they are not the greatest English speakers, but at least you would know by their face expression whether they are apologizing or sending you back to your ancestors through the place you came into this world. But they neither curse you nor apologize. All that matters to them (a least at a glance… as I had no time to make profound observations) is shopping. The rest is of no great importance to them. But beware when they catch the store fever. For people like us, used to Bucharest politeness at least on the surface, walking down the streets sided by shops had become and ordeal in the last days. No one stays out of the way, no one hurries, everyone just keeps staring at the glamorous windows of the eye (and money) catching shops.

          For the person not used to Chinese cuisine, a meal in town (and I am not talking of Wu Xing here) is a real test. I have eaten in no place where I could not see pictures of the dishes on the menu (and an English menu, as it was kind of difficult to find someone knowing to explain you what you were ordering… and in such a busy city, no one wastes time telling you of the things on your plate). The food names… some known… some unknown. Bottom line is that if there was no “pork” or “chicken” or at least “beef” in the description, we didn’t even consider those dishes. Even so you could not be entirely sure of what you were eating, but you were missing at leas to possibility of tasting some delicious dog or oyster sauce cat (or at least that’s what I like to think…). However, like any other big city, McDonald’s and KFC are to be found about everywhere (my advice: if passing by KFC and feel like grabbing a bite… keep walking – it resembles to nothing I’ve seen at KFC anywhere else and not in a good sense). In the last days at least, McDonalds was a rescuer from starvation. And speaking of restaurants… the tip is usually included in the price and is of 10, 20%... depending on the place you’re eating. At Pizza Hut (which is not a simple fast-food – is truly a restaurant with snail pasta, truffles and all sorts of specialties, including pizza), the tip was of 15%.

          A pretty peculiar habit is the passing of leisure time by the ones less rich. In the central areas of the island, there are plenty of pedestrian catwalks connecting various buildings (to be read ‘malls’). During week-ends (or legal holidays) women (ok, I’ve also seen a man but he does not count) gather on these catwalks like for some sort of fair. First I had thought they’re something like our homeless gathering in front of the city hall and standing there waiting… for what, as they get nothing anyway. But no. No way. They come prepared for a day on a fair. With cardboards (they wouldn’t sit on the ground, would they?!), with raffia bags (like the ones to be found in Obor¹), with playing cards, laptops, phones (not any book, God help us!) and bags of food. And they stay there for hours. Like an outing in our world, only they only get out on the catwalk and bring their food and drinks from home – or from some Chinese food spooky restaurant.

          But with all its inconveniences, Hong Kong remains a fascinating city a place where it is impossible to get bored. You might get angry, become excited, spend much more than planned, get indigestion at any time but never get bored.

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¹⁾ Obor - traditional market place in Bucharest usually frequented by the lower and middle class people